The Saint Georges Hotel, nestled near All Souls Church, once held a special place in my heart. It was a haven for BBC types, a quirky refuge with an air of mischief and a complete disregard for the view. Various restaurants came and went, but if you desired a bird’s-eye view of London while dining, you’d choose Hilton Park Lane.
A Welcome that Fizzles Out
On a dazzling day, I found myself drawn to The Heights, a restaurant tucked away amidst a chaotic mix of garden paraphernalia and exhausted-looking greenery. The initial welcome was warm and friendly, but the delightful staff seemed a bit lost in the game. Our order placed, the waiter confidently announced our food was coming from the kitchen – and then trailed off, forgetting to add, “when it suits them,” which seems to be the norm these days. We waited an eternity for drinks prepared at the bar, which took center stage in the dining area.
Cocktails and Confusion
My companion ordered a Los Muertos cocktail, a £17 concoction featuring Don Julio Anejo tequila, blood orange, lime, activated charcoal, agave, and hibiscus. The murky, pinky-grey glass arrived adorned with flowers and a sugar skull, which was then set alight. Even without extinguishing the flames, the drink was unbearably sweet and was promptly returned. “It looks lovely at night for Instagram,” my friend mused wistfully. Opting for a martini, he suggested I try the off-menu pisco sour.
Bland Dishes and a Missed Opportunity
Unbidden, we were presented with pico de gallo and warm tortilla chips, accompanied by a warning about the potential heat from the chillies. The dish was so bland, we requested salt and pepper, which we also used on the flatbread. This was begrudgingly spread with roasted garlic avocado purée, tomatoes, onion, coriander, pumpkin seeds, and feta cheese. My friend quipped, “This is the kind of thing you’d find at a Slug & Lettuce.” The unfortunate name hung in the air.
The el caesar salad, featuring kale, was touted as having a signature vegan caesar dressing. However, considering that anchovies, or at least Worcestershire sauce, are integral to the flavour and success of this classic salad, this seemed like a missed opportunity. Unsurprisingly, there was also a separate vegan menu.
A Façade of Mexican Flavour
The fajita bowl, priced at £23, offered a choice of chicken breast or steak. We chose the carne asada, which consisted of slices of meat drizzled with a reddish sauce – possibly the advertised vegan chipotle crema – sitting beside a pile of black beans, which were dull rather than the expected glossy, rice, and guacamole. Any connection to authentic Mexican cuisine seemed tenuous.
One guest described the décor as “restaurant as Airbnb.” During an evening visit, my well-travelled Indian journalist companion remarked, “It has the air of a chain restaurant in an airport departure lounge.” On this occasion, we tried the calamari frito, which claimed to feature wild-caught calamari. The thrill of that pursuit was lost in the darkness of multiple fryings in stale oil. The calamari remained largely untouched on our table.
A Takeaway Shop with Potential
The Heights is essentially a takeaway shop with a few stools, run by Walter Opitz, a half-Mexican, half-German enthusiast. The restaurant carries the legacy of its former life as a kebab shop, utilizing roasting spits. Chicharrones (deep-fried pork skin) with vibrant salsas set the stage, followed by tacos carnitas (pork) and suadero (beef). The crispy cornflour shells were flavorful cradles for the meat, enhanced by onions, coriander, and the vibrant sauces.
A Gratifying Bargain
Prices start at £4.50 for two tacos, a steal compared to Madera’s £13. While they may be half the price, the tacos are several times more gratifying. Weekends apparently get crowded, with Sundays featuring a special of the day, which I suspect translates to “worth the detour,” if detour it is.
The Heights, despite its flaws, is a unique restaurant with a distinct personality. While it might not be a culinary masterpiece, it offers a casual and fun atmosphere, perfect for a quick bite or a relaxed evening. The takeaway shop, with its focus on authentic Mexican flavours and affordable prices, provides a refreshing alternative to the pricey and often disappointing options found in its surroundings.
