For decades, hotel restaurants in London were synonymous with predictable, old-fashioned French cuisine. You knew what to expect – a formal setting, a chef in a tall hat, and dishes that, while good, lacked any real spark. It was a time when renowned chefs like Anton Edelmann and Michel Bourdin remained largely anonymous outside the hotel walls. But in 2001, everything changed. Gordon Ramsay burst onto the scene, bringing a whirlwind of personality and glamour to Claridge’s restaurant. Suddenly, hotel dining became an exciting destination, attracting not just the usual business clientele but also a glamorous new wave of celebrities.
A Culinary Revolution: Top Chefs Transform London’s Hotel Scene
The impact of Ramsay’s arrival was profound. Hotel restaurants became the place to be, showcasing the talents of some of the world’s most acclaimed chefs. From Hélène Darroze at the Connaught to Anne-Sophie Pic at Four Seasons at Ten Trinity Square, London’s hotel scene became a haven for culinary innovation. Michelin-starred chefs like Alain Ducasse and Yannick Alléno graced the kitchens of the Dorchester and Four Seasons Park Lane, further solidifying the city’s status as a global culinary capital.
New Openings, Bold Flavors: Peninsula and Raffles Elevate the Game
This year, London’s hotel restaurant scene has witnessed an exciting wave of new openings, with two heavyweight contenders entering the fray. At the new Peninsula hotel, Claude Bosi, renowned for his two-Michelin-starred Bibendum, has taken the helm of Brooklands, a restaurant that boasts stunning views and a contemporary design. Bosi, whose culinary reputation was forged at Hibiscus in Ludlow, has entrusted his long-time chef, Francesco Dibenedetto, to create a menu that celebrates the finest British produce.
The dining experience at Brooklands is a symphony of flavors and textures. A recent lunch featured a delectable combination of dill-infused Roscoff onion cream, Exmoor caviar, and intensely flavored duck jelly, followed by a stunning dish of French guinea fowl and Scottish razor clams. But it’s the attention to detail that truly sets Bosi’s cuisine apart. The amuse-bouches and petits fours are works of art, each bite a playful riff on British classics. The coronation chicken, for example, is reimagined as a light chicken liver parfait in a gently curried sauce, while the breakfast kippers are transformed into a rich, smoky custard topped with dots of roe, apple, and tarragon oil. The commitment to showcasing the best of British produce is evident in every dish.
A Global Perspective: Raffles London and the Rise of Mauro Colagreco
Not to be outdone, Raffles London at The OWO, housed within the historic Old War Office building, has enlisted the culinary genius of Mauro Colagreco. The Argentinian chef, known for his acclaimed restaurant Le Mirazur in France, has created three distinct dining experiences at Raffles. At the eponymous Mauro Colagreco, Colagreco showcases his passion for using seasonal British produce, emphasizing the freshest ingredients available. Each course is accompanied by a beautifully illustrated card that tells the story of the hero ingredient. Whether it’s the fermented radishes served with langoustine tartare or the grilled red oak lettuce sourced from a hydroponic urban farm, Colagreco’s commitment to championing the bounty of the British landscape is undeniable.
A Return to Classics: Claridge’s Embraces Tradition and Innovation
While the rest of London’s hotel scene embraces global chefs and cutting-edge techniques, Claridge’s has opted for a different path. The restaurant, which once housed Gordon Ramsay, has undergone a beautiful refurbishment, embracing its art nouveau heritage. Under chef Coalin Finn, the restaurant has adopted a more classic approach, focusing on providing a user-friendly and inviting atmosphere. The result is a restaurant that feels both familiar and exciting, offering a warm welcome to both locals and visitors alike.
Claridge’s commitment to tradition doesn’t mean sacrificing culinary creativity. Their steak tartare, seasoned with kombu and served with crispy capers, confit egg yolk, shiso leaf, and an umeboshi plum emulsion, is a testament to their innovative spirit. This dish perfectly encapsulates the trend of incorporating Japanese flavors into London’s culinary landscape. The turbot to share and the blackberry vacherin, a playful twist on the classic Eton mess, are further evidence of Claridge’s ability to blend tradition with contemporary flair.
A Thriving Scene: London’s Hotel Restaurants Offer a Feast for the Senses
The current landscape of London hotel restaurants is a testament to the city’s position as a culinary powerhouse. From the bold and innovative offerings of Brooklands and Mauro Colagreco to the classic elegance of Claridge’s, London’s hotel restaurants provide a truly extraordinary dining experience. Whether you’re looking for a special occasion dinner or a casual night out, these restaurants offer something for everyone. With their exceptional chefs, creative menus, and stunning settings, London’s hotel restaurants are a destination for all who appreciate the art of fine dining.
