For years, London’s hotel restaurants were predictable and often overlooked. You could count on finding classic French cuisine, prepared by a chef sporting a tall white hat. But would you recognize famous chefs like Anton Edelmann or Michel Bourdin if you bumped into them on the street? Not likely! This all changed in 2001 when Gordon Ramsay brought his personality and flair to the restaurant at Claridge’s, forever altering the landscape of hotel dining. Suddenly, these spaces became must-visit destinations for celebrities and industry leaders alike.
A New Wave of Culinary Stars
Today, hotel restaurants are the go-to spots for experiencing the artistry of the world’s finest chefs. From Hélène Darroze at the Connaught and Anne-Sophie Pic at Four Seasons at Ten Trinity Square to the Michelin-starred giants Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester and Yannick Alléno at the Four Seasons Park Lane, these culinary powerhouses have transformed the hotel dining scene into a veritable feast for the senses.
Two Newcomers Elevate the Game
London’s hotel openings this year have been particularly exciting, welcoming two more culinary heavyweights to the city’s competitive dining scene. At the new Peninsula hotel, Claude Bosi, renowned for his two-Michelin-starred Bibendum, takes the helm of Brooklands, a stunning restaurant on the eighth floor. The space, inspired by the Concorde cabin, features sleek metal and wood paneling and a grand cockpit window overlooking a spacious outdoor terrace. Bosi, who made his name at Hibiscus in Ludlow, Shropshire, has entrusted his long-time head chef, Francesco Dibenedetto, with the task of creating a menu showcasing the best of British produce.
A Culinary Masterpiece: Claude Bosi at the Peninsula
Prepare to be wowed by Bosi’s culinary mastery. A recent lunch featured a dill-infused Roscoff onion cream surrounding a dome of Exmoor caviar atop a lake of intensely flavored duck jelly, and a delightful combination of French guinea fowl and Scottish razor clams, accompanied by sea beet and potatoes in smoked butter. But the real showstoppers are the imaginative amuse-bouches and petits fours, a true celebration of British classics with a modern twist.
Think coronation chicken reimagined as a light chicken liver parfait in a gently curried sauce, a delicate sandwich of truffle and foie gras with a potato tuile paying homage to mushrooms on toast, and a rich, smoky, herring-flavored custard topped with dots of roe, apple, and tarragon oil, a clever nod to breakfast kippers. The petits fours are equally impressive, with highlights including a pear-and-hazelnut financier, turmeric-infused pâte de fruits, and a mini coffee-and-chocolate religieuse. And for those who appreciate the simple things, there’s a slice of pear – just a slice of pear. It’s a bold statement, but it speaks to the confidence and creativity of the kitchen.
The Argentinian Master: Mauro Colagreco at Raffles London
Not to be outdone, the new Raffles London at The OWO, housed in the redeveloped Old War Office in Whitehall, boasts the culinary genius of Argentinian chef Mauro Colagreco. He oversees three restaurants, including the eponymous Mauro Colagreco, which is a must-visit. Another highlight is Saison, nestled in the War Office’s old library, complete with a grand ornate stone fireplace for cozy winter evenings. Colagreco, whose flagship restaurant Le Mirazur in the south of France was named the best restaurant in the world in 2019, has shifted his focus here to showcasing the finest British fruit and vegetables – over 70 varieties, he says.
Each dish comes with a beautifully illustrated card highlighting the star ingredient. Expect to savor the likes of fermented radish served with langoustine tartare and a cream made from pressed saké lees, grilled red oak lettuce from a hydroponic urban farm, and a surprising plum hidden within a crispy ravioli shell alongside black lemon ice cream. Coupled with the elegant Edwardian surroundings, this is truly the hottest ticket in London.
Claridge’s Finds its Groove
Ironically, Claridge’s has taken a different path, embracing a less celebrity-driven approach to dining. After Ramsay, the restaurant was helmed by Simon Rogan and briefly by New York star Daniel Humm. The room has undergone a beautiful refurbishment to highlight its Art Nouveau charm. Under chef Coalin Finn, the atmosphere is more user-friendly, making it a great option for a casual night out with friends. While some might consider it an upscale brasserie, I personally enjoyed the best steak tartare in London, seasoned with kombu and served with crispy capers, confit egg yolk, shiso leaf, and an umeboshi plum emulsion, showcasing the current Japanese-inspired trend in London’s culinary scene. Follow it with turbot to share and a blackberry vacherin, a sophisticated take on Eton mess, for a truly satisfying dining experience.
London’s hotel restaurants have come a long way, evolving from predictable French dining to a vibrant hub of culinary innovation and star power. With a diverse range of chefs, innovative menus, and stunning settings, these restaurants are a testament to the city’s ever-evolving culinary landscape. So next time you’re in London, be sure to book a table at one of these remarkable destinations – your taste buds will thank you.
