London is a city that thrives on the new: cutting-edge pop-ups, trendy food trucks, and Instagram-worthy dishes. But amidst the ever-evolving culinary scene, there exists a vibrant tapestry of old-school restaurants where time seems to stand still. These establishments, some dating back centuries, offer a glimpse into London’s rich culinary heritage and provide a unique dining experience.
A Journey Through Time: From the 1970s to the 1800s
Maggie Jones’s is a time capsule of the 1970s, tucked away behind Kensington High Street. Stepping into this charming restaurant feels like entering a bygone era. The menu, unchanged for almost 50 years, features classic dishes like prawn cocktail, duck pâté, and chicken in tarragon sauce. The prices are just as nostalgic, with starters costing £9.50, mains at £23, and a glass of house wine for a mere £5.50. The atmosphere is intimate and cozy, with tables nestled in nooks and crannies, creating a sense of secrecy and intrigue.
Oslo Court, situated in St John’s Wood, transports diners to the early 1980s. This upscale establishment boasts a menu that reflects the era, with dishes like veal Holstein and duck à l’orange. The interior is a delightful explosion of pastel pink, with an abundance of sound-absorbing fabrics. The napkins, thick and plush, could easily soundproof a recording studio.
The Grand Old Men of London Dining
Rules, established in 1798, reigns supreme as the patriarch of London restaurants. Its interior, a testament to bygone elegance, is adorned with thick carpets, antique paintings, and dark wood paneling. The private dining rooms, with their wood-paneled walls, provide an intimate and convivial setting. Unlike Simpson’s, which has become a tourist attraction, Rules maintains its timeless appeal, attracting actors, politicians, and those seeking a taste of history. The must-order dish is game, including pheasant, rabbit, and grouse.
J. Sheekey’s, a mere youngster compared to Rules, opened its doors in 1893. Located a short walk from Covent Garden, this fish restaurant embodies the traditional charm of the era. The wood-paneled dining room, a recurring theme among these old-school establishments, provides the perfect setting for a truly classic experience. Along with Scott’s and Wiltons, Sheekey’s forms a trio of West End fish restaurants. While Sheekey’s and Scott’s menus have evolved, Wilton’s remains resolutely traditional. Established as a shellfish store in 1742, Wiltons exudes an air of timelessness, its legendary lobster and crab omelet a testament to its enduring appeal.
A Glimpse into London’s Past: Seafood, Indian Cuisine, and a Touch of Colonial Charm
Sweetings, a seafood institution since 1830, is renowned for its lunchtime service that caters to a clientele of bankers, lawyers, and stockbrokers. The prices, reflecting its clientele’s discerning palates, are on the higher side. Dover sole and oysters, washed down with pints of Black Velvet, are the star attractions. The restaurant is also celebrated for its traditional heavy puddings.
Veeraswamy, the first Indian restaurant to open in London in 1926, boasts a rich history. The premises, largely unaltered until the 1990s, have undergone several transformations, as has the menu. The current style, described as colonial bling, is a stark departure from the restaurant’s original charm. For an authentic Anglo-Indian experience, the India Club located within the Strand Continental Hotel is an excellent choice. Founded in 1946, this establishment has remained largely unchanged, with waiters clad in threadbare white jackets that evoke the restaurant’s opening days. The food is delightful, featuring lamb bhuna, dosas, and chapatis.
A Meeting of History and Modernity: Simpson’s in the Strand
The India Club, located near Simpson’s in the Strand, shares a certain grandeur with its neighbor. Simpson’s, established in 1850, is a restaurant steeped in history. The review, penned in 1899, described it as “old-fashioned,” a sentiment that still holds true today. The restaurant, known for its traditional charm and grand dining rooms, has been temporarily closed since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. However, it is slated to reopen in 2023.
These London restaurants, each with its own unique story and a connection to the city’s past, offer more than just a meal. They provide a glimpse into the city’s rich culinary history, transporting diners to different eras and fostering a sense of connection to the past. Whether you crave the classic charm of the 1970s, the elegance of the 1800s, or the exotic flavors of Anglo-Indian cuisine, these restaurants are a testament to London’s enduring love affair with food and its timeless ability to capture the essence of a bygone era.
