London’s hotel scene is experiencing a culinary revolution, with a surge of innovative and exciting restaurants popping up in some of the city’s most iconic hotels. Gone are the days of bland, uninspired dining experiences aimed at a captive audience. Today, hoteliers are investing heavily in creating unique and memorable dining destinations that entice guests and locals alike.
A New Era of Hotel Dining
The old adage “dining is an experience” has never rung truer than it does in London’s hotels today. These establishments are no longer simply providing sustenance; they are curating an immersive culinary journey. Take the legendary Dorchester hotel, for example. This grand dame of London hotels has undergone a stunning transformation, unveiling two celebrity chef-led restaurants: Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester and The Grill by Tom Booton. While both offer exceptional fine dining, Alain Ducasse, with its three Michelin stars, has been criticized for its “airport lounge” ambiance, a stark contrast to the hotel’s rich history. This lack of inspiration, particularly in such a renowned hotel, is a disappointment to many.
A Reimagined Classic
Similarly, the newly remodeled Savoy Grill – now known as Savoy Grill – Gordon Ramsay – has left many feeling disheartened. Gordon Ramsay’s signature touch is evident in the menu, with dishes like the Beef Wellington taking center stage, but the legendary dining room has lost its unique character. The designers have attempted to evoke a 1920s aesthetic, but the result feels more Disney than deco. While the waiters will proudly point out Churchill’s preferred table, the lack of original interior elements makes it difficult to imagine the iconic statesman in this contemporary setting.
A Tribute to Heritage
In contrast, the Connaught in Mayfair takes a different approach, embracing its heritage. Designer John Heah has meticulously preserved the hotel’s lavish interior, creating a cozy and inviting atmosphere in the 70-year-old Grill. Comfort food is the focus here, with dishes like the Hereford Sirloin and an unusual cheese and whisky pairing tempting guests.
A Neo-Gothic Feast
Another hotel celebrating its rich history is the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, which is marking its 150th anniversary with the newly opened Midland Grand. The hotel’s Grade 1 listed neo-gothic interior, designed by Gilbert Scott, provides a breathtaking backdrop for the restaurant. The Grand’s dining room, with its opulent décor, rivals the opulence of the Booking Hall across the lobby. With the Eurostar just steps away, the menu naturally leans towards French classics, offering dishes like absinthe cocktails, snails, and crab toast, perfect for setting the stage for a European adventure.
A Modern Take on Classics
For a more contemporary culinary experience, head across Euston Road to The Standard Hotel and its rooftop restaurant, Decimo. This trendy spot serves up Spanish and Mexican sharing plates, with highlights including delicate tacos and tender slices of sirloin. The rooftop bar boasts spectacular sunset views over the St Pancras spires, making it an ideal destination for a stylish evening out.
A Taste of the Caribbean
The Langham hotel, known for its stately elegance, has added a touch of Caribbean flair with its new restaurant, The Good Front Room. Chef Dom Taylor, winner of Channel 4 and Netflix’s Five Star Kitchen, has brought a fresh and vibrant energy to the space. The restaurant’s fruit punch is a must-try, while the hotel itself has never looked more charming.
Dining with a View
For those who enjoy dining with a view, Joia, located on the 15th floor of the art-otel overlooking Battersea Power Station, is a must-visit. Two-Michelin-starred Portuguese chef Henrique Sa Pessoa offers a sophisticated take on Catalonian classics, such as braised Iberian pork cheeks. Be prepared to pay a premium for the breathtaking setting.
Traditional British Charm
Tucked away in the quiet backwater of St James’s, the Stafford’s elegant The Game Bird offers a more intimate dining experience. The restaurant’s ultra-British setting, with its wood-panelled décor, provides a perfect backdrop for enjoying well-sourced British grub. Don’t miss the deep-fried cod, which melts in your mouth. After your meal, be sure to take a tour of the historic 400-year-old wine cellar, a labyrinth of fine vintages.
Modern French Cuisine
At the Four Seasons Hotel’s Pavyllon, Michelin-starred Yannick Alléno presents a thoroughly modern take on French cuisine, with a £148 tasting menu that includes red mullet and juicy lamb chops. The fashionable kitchen counter allows diners to witness the preparation of these complex dishes, offering a fascinating glimpse into the culinary artistry.
A Global Culinary Adventure
Many of London’s newer, trendier hotels are adding to their foodie portfolios. Sette at Bulgari Knightsbridge offers authentic Italian cuisine with a touch of New York flair. Nobu, a beloved chain known for its signature dishes like Rock Shrimp Tempura, Miso Black Cod, and Yellowtail Sashimi, has opened a new location at the hotel off Portman Square. The vast canteen-style dining room may feel a little gloomy, but the sushi remains as reliable as ever.
A Taste of California
Laurel’s on the Roof, perched atop the Mondrian hotel, draws inspiration from LA’s legendary hippie canyon. This rooftop haven features a swimming pool and a classic California brunch menu, complete with a stack of buttermilk pancakes loaded with your choice of toppings.
A Historic Setting with Modern Flavors
The stunningly realised NoMad, housed in the former Bow Street magistrate’s court, is one of London’s most fascinating spaces. The famous courtroom, where Oscar Wilde’s fate was sealed, has been carefully preserved, but it’s the soaring glass conservatory restaurant that truly steals the show. Chef Michael Yates’s menu focuses on local and regional bounty, but not even his eclectic menu can distract from the haunting atmosphere of this historic space.
A Fusion of Flavors
Over in Covent Garden, the Amano Hotel’s signature restaurant, Penelope’s, combines the heady flavors of Spain with the meaty goodness of Israel. The stylish dining room transforms into a dance floor on Isramani nights, where guests can enjoy a raucous evening filled with music and dancing between plates of crab bourekas and lamb doughnuts. On Saturdays, the focus shifts to the experience, with food taking a backseat to the lively atmosphere.
A Sweet Treat for Shoppers
For shoppers in need of a sweet treat, Cakes and Bubbles at the recently refurbished Café Royal on Regent Street offers a delightful selection of delicate pastries paired with champagne.
London’s Hotel Restaurants: A Culinary Landscape in Flux
London’s hotels are on a culinary roll, with a vibrant landscape of innovative and imaginative restaurants popping up across the city. From classic British fare to contemporary international cuisine, there’s a dining experience to suit every taste and preference. Whether you’re seeking a Michelin-starred meal or a casual rooftop bar, these hotel restaurants are sure to impress.
