It’s a well-known fact that some Michelin-starred restaurants rise to the top with lightning speed, quickly earning three stars shortly after opening. Others, however, follow a different path, remaining at two stars for years before finally achieving the coveted third star. This is a fascinating phenomenon, and I was curious to see how a seasoned kitchen could elevate its cuisine to the next level and earn such a prestigious recognition. Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, which held two stars for over a decade before gaining the third in 2022, presented a perfect case study. This prompted me to pay a visit and explore the reasons behind the restaurant’s latest accolade.
While the restaurant undeniably offers refined cooking and well-crafted dishes rooted in classic French techniques, my experience left me wondering whether it truly warrants three stars. Don’t get me wrong, the food was excellent, but I didn’t find any dish that truly stood out as being exceptional, with the exception of the lobster. It wasn’t necessarily a criticism, as The Connaught offers a truly enjoyable dining experience. However, it might not meet the expectations associated with a three-star restaurant, especially considering the price tag that comes with it.
A Glimpse into a French Culinary Legacy
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught boasts the title of London’s newest three-star establishment, achieving this status thirteen years after Chef Darroze took over the kitchen from Angela Hartnett. Beyond this prestigious London restaurant, Chef Darroze also helms two Michelin-starred restaurants in her native France. The cuisine at The Connaught is exactly what you would expect from a French chef cooking in one of London’s most luxurious hotels: classic French flavors with a subtle nod to the British setting through locally sourced ingredients. Though Chef Darroze’s name graces the restaurant, she divides her time between her various establishments, and she was not present during my midweek dinner. In her absence, the kitchen was expertly managed by Head Chef Marco Zampese, who has experience working at other Darroze restaurants.
Ambiance and Service: A Mixed Bag
Compared to other London restaurants I visited during my trip, The Connaught’s ambiance was not my favorite. Tables were unusually close together, and the lighting was dim, which made taking photos a challenge. The dining room seemed better suited for lunch, when natural light could stream through the large windows. The service was impeccable, with every need anticipated and addressed, but some members of the front-of-house staff appeared overly formal. A standout was Claudia, who demonstrated true finesse in navigating the room, connecting with each guest before leading them on a brief tour of the kitchen.
A Menu with Premium Prices
The menu offered a wide selection of options. The “Taste of Autumn” tasting menu was priced at £175 for five courses or £195 for seven courses, which seemed reasonable on its face. However, there were numerous supplements available, ranging from £18 for baba as a dessert to £28 for cheese and a staggering £115 for A5 Wagyu. Adding to these standard supplements were three white truffle courses that could be substituted into the tasting menu for £65 per course. While the tasting menu itself offered good value, those seeking premium ingredients would find themselves paying a hefty price. The wine menu followed suit, offering a vast selection with steep markups, even by London standards. The cheapest pairing cost £160 for seven courses, while the most premium selection reached a hefty £640. Bottled wine prices were not much better, with the list being extensive but showcasing substantial markups. Even opting for a non-alcoholic pairing wouldn’t provide much relief, as it came at a cost of £160. For those seeking a more budget-friendly option, I recommend considering cocktails from the excellent Connaught bar.
Exploring the Flavors of Hélène Darroze
The kitchen at Hélène Darroze exudes confidence, starting the tasting menu with a dish focused on the coco bean, paired with smoked eel, timut pepper, and clams consommé. This dish immediately revealed the chef’s vision, with light, clean flavors designed to avoid feeling heavy. While the intention was clear, I found the flavors too muted and lacking punch. The clams consommé, in particular, was less powerful than expected, especially compared to the deep, rich flavors I associate with consommés. It seemed like the kitchen executed the dish according to their vision, but it didn’t resonate with me.
For those with deep pockets, an alternative dish featuring Kristal caviar was available for a hefty £75. As it was late November, I opted to swap the second course (snails) for a white truffle dish (£65 supplement) that included pheasant raviolis with foie gras and salsify. While I believe white truffles are best served simply, this dish was beautifully executed. The pheasant-filled pasta was moist, a feat in itself considering how easily pheasant can dry out, and the foie-based sauce reminded me of Albufera sauce, but with a lighter touch, preventing it from clashing with the delicate white truffles. A truly well-crafted dish.
Next, a surprise course arrived featuring a beautifully seared piece of foie gras with beetroot, sansho pepper, and koji rice. As a lover of perfectly seared foie gras, this dish was right up my alley. The seasoning was spot-on, and the foie gras offered that perfect contrast between its seared exterior and silky interior. The beetroot was a smart pairing choice, its earthiness grounding and balancing the dish. This was my second favorite dish of the evening, coming in just before my absolute favorite.
Following the foie gras was one of the chef’s signature dishes: lobster with tandoori spice, carrot, citrus, and coriander. This was a truly exceptional plate of food. The Cornish lobster was cooked to perfection, and the flavors were expertly combined. The sauce, based on a meat stock, possessed incredible depth of flavor, and the use of the lobster coral was well judged. I even appreciated the added coriander, which enhanced the dish’s international flavor profile. Packed with bold and interesting flavors, this was a true culinary delight.
After two truly outstanding courses, the meal took a slight downturn with a piece of turbot served with turnip, razor clams, chanterelle, and yuzu. The flavors were pleasant, but the sauce was too restrained and lacked complexity. While hints of chanterelle and yuzu were present, they were barely noticeable, appearing timidly in the dish.
The main course consisted of a generously sized piece of guinea fowl with onion, ale, and capers. I find guinea fowl, which has a flavor similar to chicken but with more intensity, a treat when cooked well. Thankfully, this was the case here. The meat was incredibly moist, with a farci nestled between beautifully crisped skin. This was a testament to the kitchen’s expertise at Hélène Darroze. While the bird was cooked flawlessly, I struggled with the overall composition of the plate. Despite the presence of all the necessary components, I couldn’t find the perfect bite. The portion size of the fowl was also too large for such a lengthy tasting menu. It may seem like an odd complaint, but the enjoyment of such a beautifully cooked bird was diminished slightly by the difficulty in finishing the last few bites. For those who aren’t fans of guinea fowl, a dish featuring A5 Wagyu was available for a steep £115 supplement.
Moving into the pastry section, we were presented with a dish of vanilla with corn, banana, mango, and lime. This was quite interesting, with the flavors reminding me of a banana foster’s riff but with a more tropical note from the mango and lime. While pleasant enough, this dish could have benefited from some editing as the corn added one flavor too many.
For my final dessert, I chose a classic Hélène Darroze creation: a baba with raspberry, long pepper, Sarahawk pepper, and armagnac. Ignoring the £18 supplement, which seemed like an unnecessary tax for those wanting to sample a signature dish, this was a very good rendition of a classic French pastry. The baba was moist, filled with raspberries, and topped with chantilly cream. In an interesting twist, the cream was infused with two different types of peppers, which gave it a gentle aromatic spice. This combination, while unusual, was well-balanced and didn’t overshadow other flavors. Instead of the traditional rum, three Armagnacs of varying ages were offered tableside to finish the dish. While I found the Armagnac a little strong, this was a perfect rendition of a French pastry classic.
In conclusion, Hélène Darroze at The Connaught offers a refined dining experience rooted in classic French cuisine. The food is excellent, but the question of whether it truly warrants three stars remains. The restaurant’s ambiance and service are mixed, with some aspects needing improvement. The menu presents a good value for the tasting menu itself, but the numerous supplements and high-priced wine pairings can quickly escalate the cost. While the overall experience is enjoyable, the lack of truly exceptional dishes and the steep prices may lead some to question the restaurant’s three-star designation. However, the well-executed dishes, particularly the lobster and foie gras, showcase the chef’s talent and provide a glimpse into the French culinary legacy that Hélène Darroze represents.
