Some Michelin-starred restaurants soar to three stars quickly, while others take a more gradual path. Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, a London restaurant, is one of the latter, holding two stars for a decade before achieving the elusive third in 2022. This prompted me to investigate what propelled this well-established kitchen to the pinnacle of culinary excellence.
This review explores the restaurant’s food, ambiance, and service, analyzing whether it justifies its newly attained three-star status.
A Taste of Classic French Elegance
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught embodies the epitome of classic French cuisine in a luxurious London setting. It is a testament to the legacy of Chef Darroze, renowned for her Michelin-starred restaurants in France. Despite her presence being split between her establishments, the kitchen, led by Head Chef Marco Zampese, maintains the high standards expected of a three-star restaurant.
While the food exudes refinement, it lacks the excitement and innovation that would truly distinguish it as a three-star experience. Many dishes, while well-executed, seem somewhat predictable, relying heavily on traditional French techniques. While enjoyable, they lack the wow factor that typically accompanies a restaurant of this caliber.
Ambiance and Service: A Refined Setting with Mixed Results
The Connaught’s dining room offers a sophisticated ambiance, but it might not appeal to everyone. The tables are unusually close, and the dim lighting creates an intimate atmosphere that could feel a bit cramped. Service, while professional and attentive, can sometimes feel excessively formal.
Despite this, some staff members, like Claudia, shine through with their warm and engaging personalities, adding a touch of personalization to the dining experience.
A Costly Tasting Menu: A Luxurious Experience with a Price Tag to Match
The restaurant offers a “Taste of Autumn” tasting menu, with a choice of five or seven courses. While priced reasonably at £175 and £195 respectively, a plethora of supplement options significantly increase the final bill. From an £18 baba dessert to a £115 A5 wagyu, the extras can make a luxurious meal very costly.
The wine pairing options are similarly abundant, with prices ranging from a modest £160 for a seven-course pairing to a hefty £640 for the top tier. The wine list is extensive but features high mark-ups, even by London standards.
A Culinary Journey: From Subtle Beginnings to a Bold Finish
The tasting menu begins with a coco bean dish, a bold choice for a three-star restaurant. While the intent to create a light and refreshing palate cleanser is evident, the muted flavors fail to make a lasting impression.
The white truffle dish, a supplement option, offers a more refined experience. The pheasant ravioli is perfectly prepared, complemented by a delicate foie gras sauce that doesn’t overshadow the truffles’ delicate aroma.
A surprise course of seared foie gras with beetroot and koji rice delivers a bold burst of flavor, highlighting the chef’s skill in balancing richness and acidity. This dish stands out as a highlight, showcasing the restaurant’s potential.
The lobster with tandoori spice, carrot, citrus, and coriander, a signature dish, further elevates the experience. The perfectly cooked lobster is infused with a complex blend of flavors, showcasing the chef’s international flair. This dish is a true testament to the restaurant’s culinary prowess.
While the turbot dish lacks the same level of intensity, the guinea fowl stands out as a perfectly cooked and delicious main course. However, the generous portion size and inconsistent composition hinder the overall enjoyment.
The desserts offer a mixed bag. The vanilla with corn, banana, mango, and lime, while interesting, suffers from too many competing flavors. The baba, however, delivers a classic French pastry experience, with a subtle spice and a generous offering of Armagnacs for a decadent finish.
Conclusion: A Three-Star Restaurant with Room to Grow
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught is a refined and enjoyable dining experience that undoubtedly deserves its three Michelin stars. However, it falls short of the exceptional level of culinary innovation and excitement that would truly elevate it to the top tier of the world’s best restaurants. The restaurant offers well-crafted dishes, but the lack of a truly memorable experience leaves room for improvement. While the restaurant’s ambiance and service contribute to a luxurious experience, the high price tag and the lack of exceptional flavor profiles might leave some diners wanting more.
