It was a sad day when Baltic, the beloved Eastern European restaurant on Blackfriars Road, closed its doors. The closure had been looming for some time, with the COVID-19 pandemic forcing many hospitality businesses to reassess their future. Baltic was a favorite of mine, offering not only a delicious lunch and dinner menu but also a cozy spot for blini and bubbly. It was a truly unique establishment, and I deeply missed its warm atmosphere.
A New Chapter Begins
Could the new restaurant, Antillean, capture the same magic? After my first visit, I can confidently say there’s a strong chance. Antillean wisely maintained Baltic’s unique layout. If you haven’t been, it’s a surprising twist: you enter from a bustling street into a long, dimly lit bar. But then, the floor drops away and the ceiling rises, revealing a spacious barn-like space with high wooden beams and a pitched roof. The transition is dramatic, bathing you in light and always eliciting a sense of awe.
A Taste of the Caribbean
The surprises don’t end there. West Indian restaurants in London, let’s be honest, often lack sophistication. But Antillean stands out, offering both stylish decor and exceptional cuisine. Chef Patron Michael Hanbury masterfully blends the diverse influences of Caribbean cooking – French, African, Spanish, Indian, Dutch, and Chinese – to create a vibrant and inventive menu. You’ll find a range of options, including express and pre-theater menus with prix fixes, as well as the full a la carte menu.
A Rum-Infused Journey
Antillean also offers a unique signature menu, a tasting menu paired with a rum flight, a different shot with each course. I chickened out of the five-course rum pairing, but my dining companion enjoyed a brilliant Windward Old Fashioned while I savored the Big Bird Delivery cocktail. It was subtly floral without being overly sweet, and I’m already looking forward to trying the irresistibly named “Water is for Fish, Man” next time.
Sharing Plates and Delicious Discoveries
The signature menu is a must-try. Hanbury’s philosophy, applied to all the menus, is tapas-style sharing. While you contemplate the offerings, a glass of Champagne arrives. Don’t worry, it’s not meant to make you choose – you get everything. The amuse bouche of sardines on toasted bread, with a spicy mayo and herb-lime vinaigrette, is a burst of flavor, a perfect prelude to the delicious journey ahead.
Next comes the Ceviche, mojito-cured grouper with mint, lime, and rum, a perfumed delight. Then, a trio of small plates: mackerel escovitch, chicken skewers with a tomato and mango salsita, and grilled octopus, tender and flavorful, a far cry from rubbery calamari.
A Feast for the Senses
After a palate-cleansing sorbet, the large plates arrive. Don’t worry, this isn’t one of those tasting menus that leaves you exhausted. The large plates are still tasting size, offering delicious bites of flying fish, cou-cou, and plantain, roast achiote tamarind chicken with rice and peas, and braised oxtail with sweet potato puree.
The dessert selection is equally impressive: plantain tarte tatin, chocolate torte with passionfruit and mango, a gingery carrot cake with pineapple, and Guinness punch ice cream. Everything arrives at just the right pace, with helpful explanations from the charming staff.
A New Favorite
Antillean has quickly become a favorite. I’m already planning my next visit to try the laid-back weekend brunch with a DJ and Caribbean jazz saxophonist. Could this place get any more relaxed and inviting?
Antillean, 74 Blackfriars Road, London SE1 8HA. For more information and reservations, visit www.antillean.co.uk.
