A walk down memory lane through time, exploring the history of Borough Market and its surrounding gems. This tale delves into the heart of London, uncovering the transformation of a bustling market and its unique pubs. Come along on a journey through time and rediscover Borough Market, a place where history and modernity collide.
A Photographic Time Capsule: The Globe Pub
In 1977, armed with my brand new Canon AE-1 camera, I captured a glimpse of Borough Market – a stark contrast to the market of today. The focal point of my lens was the Globe, a charming brick pub. Back then, the Globe‘s exterior boasted a coat of paint, but its original brickwork now shines through after the paint was removed.
The Globe wasn’t just any pub; it was a vital hub for the market workers, serving them as early as 6:30 AM. A quick glance at the pub’s license revealed its designated customers – “Salesmen, Buyers, Carmen, Assistants or Porters” – all part of the market’s vibrant lifeblood.
The market itself was a symphony of activity – a sea of colorful fruit, vegetables, and potatoes. Barrows, laden with goods, lined the narrow aisles, making it impossible for vehicles to enter. Porters, the market’s unsung heroes, were employed to transport goods from lorries parked on the streets into the market. It was this scene – a barrow nestled beside the Globe, that captured my attention, encapsulating the essence of a London market in that era.
From Wholesale to Gourmet: Borough Market’s Renaissance
Fast forward to 2020, and the Globe stands as a silent witness to the market’s remarkable transformation. The days of selling Double Diamond are long gone, replaced by an array of artisan cheeses and gourmet delights.
The market’s evolution started in the late 1970s when the traditional wholesale market began to fade, giving way to a new era of specialization. The rise of large supermarkets, with their own supply chains, further reduced the need for local markets like Borough.
However, Borough Market was destined for a comeback. In the late 1990s, a new chapter unfolded. Specialist food suppliers flocked to the market, and food fairs became the order of the day. Borough Market flourished, attracting tourists and shoppers alike. Today, it’s a vibrant hub, overflowing with artisanal delights and gourmet experiences.
Pubs with a Past: Tales from the Market’s Corners
The pubs that once served the market porters have also undergone a transformation. The Market Porter, a pub dating back to 1890, sits proudly on the corner of Stoney Street and Park Street. Gone are the barrows outside its door; now, it attracts a new breed of patrons, seeking a taste of history amidst the modern bustle.
Another pub with a fascinating story is the Wheatsheaf, nestled on Stoney Street in a rather peculiar location, squeezed against a railway bridge. The Wheatsheaf, dating back to the 18th century, lost a floor during the construction of the Thameslink Viaduct in 2009. Despite the dramatic changes, this historic pub survived and reopened in 2014, albeit in a cramped form.
An Architectural Masterpiece: The Hop and Malt Exchange
Just a stone’s throw from Borough Market stands a magnificent architectural gem – the Hop and Malt Exchange. This imposing building, dating back to 1867, was once the heart of the hop trade, a hub for growers and buyers from across Kent, Sussex, and Surrey.
The Hop and Malt Exchange, with its impressive frontage on Southwark Street, was a testament to the importance of the hop trade. Unfortunately, a devastating fire in 1920 gutted much of the building, resulting in the demolition of the top two floors. Despite the fire’s devastation, the Hop and Malt Exchange retained its grandeur, a monument to a bygone era.
The Hop and Malt Exchange has now been restored, embracing a new life as a vibrant space for offices, corporate hospitality, and live events. While the era of hop trading has passed, the building continues to echo its past, serving as a reminder of the crucial role it played in London’s agricultural history.
A Legacy of Trade: From Barrows to Gourmet Delights
Borough Market’s journey is a captivating tale of change and resilience. From its origins as a bustling market at the southern end of London Bridge to its modern incarnation as a gastronomic haven, Borough Market has adapted and thrived, reflecting the ebb and flow of time. The Hop and Malt Exchange stands as a testament to the area’s long-standing significance as a center for agricultural trade. My 1977 photo captures the final act of that era, but Borough Market continues to flourish, catering to a new, 21st-century clientele. Today, the market pulsates with a vibrant energy, showcasing the finest food from across the globe, a far cry from the barrow-laden aisles of the past. But through it all, the echoes of its rich history resonate, making Borough Market a place where the past and present intertwine.
