Imagine a haven nestled amidst the bustling chaos of London’s Oxford Street. A place where independent shops and eateries beckon, offering a welcome respite from the relentless hum of big-brand stores. This is Seymour Place in Marylebone, a vibrant neighbourhood brimming with charm and community spirit.
Seymour Place whispers of a bygone era, with its traditional launderettes and old-school newsagents. It’s a place where neighbors greet each other warmly and a sense of belonging permeates the air. A friend recently invited me to experience a “food safari” in Marylebone, and I eagerly embraced the opportunity to discover the culinary delights hidden within its streets.
A Taste of Italy and Beyond
My adventure began at The Italian Greyhound, a haven of wood, glass, and sage green tones that exudes a sense of tranquility despite its lively atmosphere. Clever lighting creates a cozy ambiance on a grey day, while the sun streams in on brighter days, bathing the space in warmth. This charming eatery, just a short walk from Marble Arch, offers a perfect escape from the throngs of shoppers on Oxford Street.
The menu at The Italian Greyhound is inspired by the flavors of Sicily, boasting a selection of tempting dishes. But be warned, save ample room for the pillowy focaccia, the best I’ve had outside of Italy! Served with a sweet balsamic reduction and fragrant olive oil, this bread alone could make a meal, especially when paired with a refreshing mandarin margarita. However, if you’re feeling adventurous, consider indulging in a plate of freshly made pasta, bathed in a sinfully delicious buttery sauce. I highly recommend the Insta-worthy crab ravioli, topped with a sliver of crispy garlic and a dash of agretto.
From Italy to France, and So French
Just a stone’s throw from The Italian Greyhound, you’ll find So French, a delightful French épicerie housed next to a traditional hardware store. Step inside, and your senses will be tantalized by an array of exquisitely packaged French delights. Each box of bon bons, tin of tea, jar of syrup, and flagon of oil beckons with its exquisite taste and alluring packaging. But the real star of the show is the patisserie. Sweet, creamy lemon tarts, towering stacks of viennoiseries, and a decadent Paris Brest groaning with praline cream will tempt even the most disciplined palate.
All the ingredients, from the flour and butter to the cream, are sourced directly from France, ensuring an authentic French experience. And what better way to enjoy these delicacies than with a glass of champagne, lovingly sourced from one of their carefully selected small suppliers?
A Culinary Journey Through the Continents
Seymour Place is a true culinary melting pot, offering a taste of every continent within its few streets. For a taste of East Asia, head to Uli, where you can savor delicious dim sum and flavorful dishes like their unctuous aubergine salad, marinated in a sweet soy miso dressing and topped with sesame seeds. The spacious interior, with its pale wooden tables and chairs and comfortable banquettes, creates a welcoming atmosphere. It’s no surprise that Uli has been named “Best Chinese” by Deliveroo, and it’s easy to imagine ordering from here becoming a weekly ritual.
If your taste buds crave the flavors of San Sebastian, then Donostia is the place for you. This intimate bar, with its open kitchen, showcases the best of Basque country cuisine, thanks to Head Chef Charlie Bourn, a native of England who trained in some of the UK’s finest restaurants.
Charlie’s passion for Basque cuisine is evident in every dish he creates. The brandade of salt cod served on toasted brioche is a symphony of flavors, with its robust, sweet, creamy, and salty notes perfectly balanced. And then there’s the txutela beef, sourced from 15-year-old retired dairy cows. Forget wagyu, this beef, whether served rare with scorched edges or slow-cooked and pulled in a bao bun, is a culinary triumph.
At Donostia, even familiar dishes are elevated to new heights. The giant tortilla oozes with eggy richness and is topped with salted, deep-fried camarones, transporting you to a seaside holiday. The tomatoes, sourced from Spain, are served simply with olive oil, salt, and a sprinkle of thyme, their sweetness reminding you that this fruit is truly a culinary marvel. To complete the experience, let Bartek guide you through their impressive wine list, featuring both well-known and lesser-known Spanish grape varieties and regions.
A Culinary Destination for Special Occasions
For a truly special dining experience, head to Lurra, Donostia’s sister restaurant. This stylish eatery, known for its welcoming atmosphere and excellent service, attracts a chic clientele, including notable figures like David Cameron and Txiki Begiristain.
The star of the show at Lurra is the Basque cheesecake. This dense, delicious dessert, with its fondant-like melting middle and contrasting bitter from the traditional burnished top, is renowned throughout the neighborhood. We couldn’t resist trying it, and it lived up to its reputation, leaving us in a state of blissful contentment.
A Taste of Persian Flavors
Seymour Kitchen, with its bright, inviting space and mouthwatering aroma of Persian spices, offers a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Grab a window seat and watch the locals greet each other, a testament to the close-knit community that thrives in Marylebone.
Indulge in a cup of mint tea and soak up the vibrant energy of this international neighborhood. If you’re hungry, the granola is a must-try, with its clean, creamy-rich yoghurt, biscuity oats, plump berries, delicate shards of pistachio, and a drizzle of honey and shaved coconut. For a heartier meal, try the nargesi, a dish similar to shakshuka, but with spinach instead of peppers and tomatoes, topped with piquant spices and labneh and served with sesame-topped flatbreads.
A Fatteh Feast
No London food safari is complete without a visit to T by Tamara, the city’s first and only fatteh bar. This unique eatery offers a variety of fatteh dishes, a Middle Eastern staple made with pita bread, chickpeas, and a variety of toppings.
The signature fatteh features spiced Musakhan chicken, piled on a bed of crispy pita bread and topped with chickpeas, green chilies, garlic yoghurt, toasted almonds, and sumac. T by Tamara also offers breakfast options, including a mezze platter, pistachio nut cookies, and a unforgettable zaatar-filled croissant.
A Culinary Journey to Remember
Marylebone, with its charming streets and diverse culinary offerings, is a true gem in the heart of London. Whether you’re seeking a casual lunch, a gourmet dinner, or a sweet treat, this vibrant neighborhood has something to offer every taste bud.
To plan your own Marylebone food safari, follow @portmanmarylebone on Instagram for the latest news and events, or visit portmanmarylebone.com. And if you’re looking for a luxurious base to explore the neighborhood, the Hyatt Regency – The Churchill, with its central location, elegant accommodations, and delicious breakfast buffet, is the perfect choice.
