Jonathan Nunn, a food writer with a passion for discovering hidden culinary gems, is on a mission to showcase the diverse flavors of London’s lesser-known neighborhoods. His journey takes him to unconventional eateries, tucked away in suburban backstreets, and ethnic food markets, offering a unique perspective on London’s rich culinary tapestry.
Unveiling London’s Flavorful Underbelly
On a typical, overcast day, I met Nunn outside a snooker hall in Edmonton, a suburb of North London, known for its reservoirs and fast roads. Across the street stood the Yayla Food Centre, a grocer and halal butcher, offering a multitude of ethnic products. This was the backdrop for my culinary adventure with Nunn, the founder of Vittles, an influential food newsletter, and a former contributor to Eater London.
Nunn, with his encyclopedic knowledge of London’s restaurant scene, has become the city’s culinary champion, much like Jonathan Gold was to Los Angeles or Robert Sietsema and Jim Leff to New York. He champions the best and most remote eateries, highlighting Gujarati egg snacks, vegan Rastafari pasta, and other hidden culinary treasures.
A Critic’s Perspective: Exploring London’s Unexpected Delights
Nunn, known for his energetic and enthusiastic approach, is not afraid to challenge conventional notions of restaurant criticism. He challenges the insular world of British newspaper restaurant writing, promoting a more inclusive and diverse perspective on food. His deep knowledge and relentless pursuit of culinary excellence are undeniable, but his straightforward personality can sometimes come across as dismissive, especially to mainstream critics.
Our culinary journey began at Lincoln’s Patisserie, a Caribbean bakery in Edmonton. Nunn, a meticulous and experienced eater, cautioned me against biting into the Jamaican patty immediately, explaining that it could microwave in my throat. He ordered a beef patty, a salt-fish patty, and some carrot cake, while I, having made the mistake of eating breakfast, observed his meticulous approach.
The Birth of Vittles: Championing a New Era of Food Writing
Nunn launched Vittles in March 2020, at the onset of the pandemic, driven by a desire to platform a new type of food writing in the U.K. His passion for the food of diaspora communities, particularly Cantonese cuisine, led him to explore the culinary landscape of London’s suburbs. He believes that London’s true culinary heart lies beyond the confines of the city center, and his work reflects this conviction.
Vittles has grown into a thriving platform with over forty thousand subscribers, featuring thoughtful essays, practical recommendations, and restaurant reviews from chefs, sommeliers, and culinary icons like Nigella Lawson. Nunn strives to create a space for diverse voices in food writing, challenging the existing media landscape and fostering a more inclusive culinary conversation.
A Journey Beyond the Plate: The Power of Food and Community
Nunn’s work transcends the realm of mere restaurant reviews, exploring the connection between food and community. He believes that food is a powerful vehicle for understanding and connecting with diverse cultures, and his writing reflects this belief.
Nunn’s quest for unique culinary experiences led us to an industrial estate in search of kokoreç, a Turkish sausage made with minced offal. While the kokoreç stand was inaccessible, Nunn’s unwavering enthusiasm and encyclopedic knowledge of London’s culinary landscape were evident.
The Legacy of a Food Explorer: Sharing Culinary Discoveries
Nunn’s passion for culinary exploration is reflected in his use of social media, where he shares his discoveries through Instagram stories. He is particularly interested in unveiling hidden culinary gems and sharing them with his audience. His careful approach to revealing culinary secrets stems from a desire to protect the authenticity and character of these special places.
Inspired by Los Angeles: A New Culinary Chapter
Nunn’s travels to Los Angeles led him to reflect on London’s culinary landscape. The inventiveness and diversity of Los Angeles’s food scene sparked a new inspiration, prompting him to investigate the potential of the biryani as a culinary analogue in London.
Nunn’s quest for culinary discovery continues, inspiring a new generation of food enthusiasts to explore the hidden treasures of their own cities. His work exemplifies the power of food to connect people, cultures, and communities, highlighting the importance of celebrating the diversity and richness of the culinary world.
