Step back in time with me as we explore the captivating history of St. James Clerkenwell, a London landmark that whispers tales of centuries past. Join me on a journey through time, beginning with a snapshot of the church in 1953, and ending with its modern-day vibrancy.
A Church Through Time: From 1953 to Today
On a tranquil Sunday morning in September 1953, my father captured a timeless image of St. James Clerkenwell. The church’s doors stood ajar, hinting at a recent service. The scene, however, was not devoid of everyday life. A passerby, likely more interested in the nearby pub, strolled by with his faithful companion – his dog.
Fast forward to 2017, and we find the church’s exterior largely unchanged. But the bustling weekday atmosphere reveals a stark contrast to the serene Sunday morning of the past.
A History Steeped in Faith and Transformation
The St. James Clerkenwell we see today is the product of centuries of transformation. Its current structure, built between 1788 and 1792, replaced a much older church with roots reaching back to the 12th century. Before the Reformation, the site housed an Augustinian nunnery dedicated to St. Mary. Following the Reformation, parts of the nunnery were adapted for use as the parish church.
A 19th-century print reveals the original St. James church with its imposing steeple. This majestic feature, unfortunately, was lost to history in 1623, succumbing to the ravages of time and neglect. A subsequent replacement steeple met a similar fate, ultimately leaving the church with the sturdy tower we see today.
A Map Uncovers Clerkenwell’s Evolution
A 1720 map provides valuable insights into Clerkenwell’s growth. It reveals the parish of St. James as a peripheral area of London. Open fields stretched beyond the church’s location, marking the boundaries of the city.
St. John Street, a major thoroughfare, sliced through the map and was labeled as “the road to Chester”. This intriguing designation, for a location so distant, underscores the shifting boundaries of the city and the changing nature of travel in the past.
St. James Clerkenwell: A New Church Rises
The new St. James church, designed by the renowned architect James Carr, was a testament to the city’s progress. Its construction cost a staggering £12,000, and it was consecrated in 1792.
The church’s presence in the landscape, captured in an 1812 photograph, demonstrates its significance as a focal point of the community.
The Crown Tavern: A Historic Pub with a Secret Past
The Crown Tavern, nestled on the corner of Clerkenwell Green and Close, holds a special place in the neighborhood’s history. Its historic facade dates back to the mid-19th century. The tavern’s connection to the past extends beyond its architecture. It is rumored to be the site of the first meeting between Vladimir Lenin and Joseph Stalin in 1905. This legendary encounter further cements the Crown Tavern’s place in the annals of history.
St. James Today: A Blend of Old and New
While the church’s exterior remains largely unchanged, its interior bears the mark of Victorian restoration. Today, the church serves as a workspace, a testament to its ongoing role in the community.
The churchyard, once a resting place for the departed, has been transformed into a vibrant public space. Local workers gather here during lunchtime, enjoying the serenity and the shade provided by the mature trees that surround the church.
The tree-lined churchyard serves as a reminder of the church’s long-standing connection to its surroundings. One of the trees boasts a unique sculpture of bird boxes, a testament to the ongoing evolution of this historic site.
A Legacy That Endures
As we depart from St. James Clerkenwell, the church’s majestic tower dominates the skyline, a reminder of its enduring legacy. St. James, nestled in the heart of Clerkenwell, is not just a building but a living testament to the city’s rich and complex history. It is a place where past and present collide, inviting us to reflect on the city’s journey and to appreciate the treasures hidden in plain sight.
I will undoubtedly return to explore this fascinating area further, perhaps on another serene Sunday morning, at 11:30. Until then, I hope you have enjoyed this glimpse into the captivating history of St. James Clerkenwell.
