The scene: a swanky Mayfair evening. Three diners, a man flanked by two women, gracefully enter The Connaught’s lobby, heading towards the newly revamped dining area, Jean-Georges at The Connaught. The space, bathed in soft light filtering through stained-glass windows, exudes an air of sophisticated comfort.
Stephanie Beresforde, a captivating blonde with a smile that could melt the coldest heart, seats the trio. They are awaiting the arrival of the fourth diner, the first husband of the dark-haired woman (WwDH). Her second husband, Reg Gadney (RG), volunteers to track him down. Minutes later, he returns with Tom Maschler (TM), the first husband, who had been lost in the bar.
Menus adorned with a charming illustration by Jean Jullien are distributed. TM, forgetful as ever, has left his glasses behind. A waiter is dispatched to retrieve a replacement pair, presenting a silver tray of spectacles. However, every pair proves unsuitable. TM borrows RG’s glasses, leaving the poor man visually impaired. A magnifying glass provides the perfect solution.
The spotlight shifts to the restaurant itself. Jean-Georges Vongerichten, the chef behind the restaurant’s namesake, approaches the table. He shares a warm embrace with the dark-haired woman, a familiar face from his days at Vong in The Berkeley hotel, where he first introduced Asian fusion to London. With 23 restaurants in the US and 14 around the world, he still possesses a youthful energy. “It’s the steam in the kitchens,” he explains with a grin.
Orders are placed. Beth Coventry (BC), the dark-haired woman’s sister, opts for fresh crab crostini with lemon aioli. Two diners, seeking those Asian influences, select crispy salmon sushi with chipotle emulsion and soy glaze. RG chooses gazpacho with raspberries, cucumber, black pepper, and basil. The sushi is described as “low-impact,” while the crab crostini is deemed “innocuous.” Both seem to pale in comparison to the £29 black truffle and fontina pizza, which can also be ordered as takeaway.
WwDH, clearly well-informed, announces, “This is the first time in its 100-year history as The Connaught that the hotel has provided takeaway pizza.” Her guests, though, remain unmoved. The **gazpacho garners enthusiastic praise, lauded as exceptionally delicious.
The arrival of another chef, Anshu Anghotra (AA), adds another layer to the evening. WwDH recognizes him from his time as executive chef at Lanes of London at The Marriott Park Lane, where he sought inspiration in the streets. He will be in charge when J-G is at one of his other 37 restaurants.
The food arrives: fish and chips with petits pois remoulade, where small fish are encased in thick batter, challenging the traditional concept. The Parmesan-crusted chicken and roasted John Dory, though delicious, seem to lack the daring associated with J-G. “I sometimes think about the dish of 40 vegetables that Jean-Georges served at Vong long before others were doing that sort of thing,” muses WwDH.
