A breathtaking view can often make us overlook flaws, and Madera, the new Mexican restaurant perched atop a London building, takes full advantage of this. This eatery boasts a stunning panorama of the city, offering diners a unique perspective of London’s iconic skyline. The restaurant itself sits atop a previously unremarkable building, situated near All Souls Church and the BBC building, just north of Oxford Circus.
The Madera brand is known for its Mexican-inspired cuisine, having established locations in Arizona and California. However, it’s crucial to note that Madera’s offerings aren’t authentic Mexican fare. Instead, they present a Westernized take on Mexican cuisine, likely crafted to appeal to British and American palates.
A Menu Designed for Grazing, Not Deciding
Madera embraces the current restaurant trend of offering a bewildering array of options, catering to the modern diner’s desire for a “grazing” experience. Their menu is divided into sections like small plates, large plates, pan planos (essentially Mexican pizzas), as well as a raw bar, a salad section, and a taqueria with a variety of tacos. While this variety is tempting, it can be overwhelming, particularly when trying to choose dishes for a group. Fortunately, our friendly server was able to guide us through the labyrinthine menu, suggesting a selection of dishes. However, it felt as if there was a subtle push toward the more expensive choices.
A Whirlwind of Flavors
We were presented with a rapid succession of dishes, five of which we ordered and two of which were complimentary. Sadly, this rapid-fire delivery, without any clear indication of which dish was which, created a blurry sensory experience. Despite the lack of individual identification, the presentation was undeniably captivating, with an eye towards the Instagram generation. The cooking itself was generally well-executed, with a thoughtful use of spice, showcasing quality ingredients. Our pan plato with avocado and roasted garlic was particularly captivating, emanating a rich aroma.
The Oaxacan mole, a chocolate sauce, was a curious attempt at a crowd-pleaser, but fell short of expectations. On the other hand, the chicken taquitos and carne asado from the taqueria were delightful. The entire meal was accompanied by a satisfying Italian Merlot, chosen from a decent wine list. However, our server’s eagerness to pour left us with more wine than we could comfortably consume.
The View Might Keep You Coming Back, But…
Overall, Madera’s pricing was more reasonable than one might expect for a venue with such a prime location. Undoubtedly, the views will keep people returning. However, there is room for improvement, particularly in the pacing and presentation of the dishes. The dining experience felt somewhat chaotic, and diners could benefit from a more structured and informed approach to the menu and service. Madera’s focus on the visual appeal might overshadow the need for a more refined dining experience. While the view might be spectacular, the food and service need to catch up to truly elevate this restaurant.
