London is a city of endless possibilities, and choosing where to live can be a daunting task. I remember asking a friend for advice when I first arrived, and she enthusiastically recommended Hampstead. Now, after years of experiencing the city’s diverse neighborhoods, I’ve developed my own favorite: Clerkenwell.
My fondness for Clerkenwell is so deep that I jumped at the chance to spend two nights at The Rosebery, a stylish aparthotel in the area, to really get a taste of life here. The moment I stepped into my spacious one-bedroom apartment, I was captivated by its sleek modern design and stunning views of the City’s iconic skyscrapers and St Paul’s Cathedral. Despite a few minor quirks (a slightly noisy fan and a temperamental lighting panel), The Rosebery provided a comfortable and inspiring home base for my staycation.
My Clerkenwell adventure began with a stroll down Exmouth Market, a bustling culinary hub renowned for its diverse and delicious offerings. From mouthwatering pizzas at Santore to a flavorful ful medames lunch at Hummus Bros, Exmouth Market offers a delectable smorgasbord of restaurants, cafes, and outdoor market stalls.
Beyond the culinary delights, I stumbled upon hidden gems tucked away in Clerkenwell’s charming alleyways. One such gem was a tranquil park bursting with vibrant flowers and adorable dogs, making me seriously consider a permanent move to this captivating neighborhood.
The Clerkenwell Collection, a unique shop showcasing everything from exquisite handbags to bespoke suits, further cemented my appreciation for the area’s eclectic charm. I was particularly drawn to their curated collection of accessories by Elvis & Kresse, crafted from ethically reclaimed materials. My exploration continued at the lively Leather Lane Market, where I couldn’t resist indulging in a halloumi wrap from Victus & Bibo – a truly delicious experience that explained the massive queue.
Clerkenwell’s vibrant coffee culture was evident at Prufrock, one of the neighborhood’s most acclaimed coffee shops. I savored a latte as I continued my journey towards Smithfield Market, a historic Victorian meat market that somehow survived in the heart of London, while its counterparts moved to the outskirts.
Although the market itself was quiet during my visit (all the trading happens in the early hours), its rich history captivated me. I learned about the execution of Scottish hero William Wallace at this very spot and the bizarre practice of husbands selling their unwanted wives in the early 19th century!
Despite its sometimes-dark past, Smithfield is now surrounded by a plethora of fantastic restaurants. From the elegant Club Gascon to the cozy Fox & Anchor pub, and from the Michelin-starred St John to the ever-popular brunch spot The Modern Pantry, there’s a culinary haven for every taste. Add to that the hip ambiance of the Zetter Townhouse Bar and the intimate atmosphere of secret bars like Tart, and you have a truly unique and exciting dining scene.
My staycation wouldn’t be complete without a memorable dining experience, and Bird of Smithfield, a multi-story restaurant and bar near Smithfield Market, didn’t disappoint. Chef Alan Bird, formerly of The Ivy, delivered a delightful culinary journey with dishes that perfectly complemented the cozy ambiance of the first-floor dining room.
The starter of scallops with Jerusalem artichokes, pears, and bacon was a symphony of flavors, while the succulent 28-day dry aged South Devon sirloin beef with Bearnaise sauce warmed me from the inside out on a rainy evening. No comforting meal would be complete without a touch of sweetness, and the divine sea salt caramel and Cru Virunga crackling pot, paired with a glass of Valpolicella, provided the perfect ending to my gastronomic adventure.
As my staycation drew to a close, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of contentment and a deep appreciation for Clerkenwell’s unique character. The neighborhood’s rich history, vibrant dining scene, and charming hidden gems had woven a spell that left me wanting more. If you ask me where to base yourself in London, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Clerkenwell – a place where history meets modernity, and where every corner reveals a new story.
