Have you ever heard of St. James’s? It’s one of those London neighborhoods that’s often mentioned but rarely explored. There’s a certain air of exclusivity, a feeling that unless you have a fancy last name and a bank account that could rival royalty, you might be met with disapproving stares. But don’t let that deter you!
This charming corner of the city offers a glimpse into a bygone era, a place where traditional elegance and modern comfort intertwine. At the heart of this area lies DUKES London, a hotel that’s as legendary as the city itself.
A Hotel Steeped in History
DUKES London isn’t just a hotel, it’s an experience. It’s an institution, a place where time seems to stand still. Although it’s a well-known name, it maintains a discreet charm, feeling like a well-kept secret. Tucked away from the bustling main thoroughfare, it’s surrounded by iconic landmarks like Green Park, Berry Bros. & Rudd, and Lock & Co. Hatters. You won’t stumble upon DUKES by accident, and even if you did, you might not recognize it as one of London’s finest boutique hotels.
It’s been a hotel since 1908 and remains proudly independent. It’s intimate, boasting just 90 rooms and suites, and you’ll feel a hint of that private club atmosphere. The staff greet many guests with familiar warmth, whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a first-time visitor. Even your furry friend is welcomed with open arms!
An Ode to English Elegance
Stepping into DUKES is like stepping into a classic English novel. Condé Nast Traveler describes it as “a parody of Englishness,” a perfect embodiment of “fantasy London” with its cobblestone streets and red phone boxes. The Luxury Editor calls it “one of the capital’s most iconic entrances,” comparing it to “arriving at a stately home.” The cascading flowers adorning the façade and the charming courtyard create an inviting atmosphere, making you feel like you’ve arrived at a beloved aunt’s home rather than a hotel.
The rooms are comfortable and stylish, though they don’t necessarily scream “cutting edge.” They’re timeless, reflecting the Victorian heritage of the building. Don’t misunderstand, they’re not lacking in modern amenities. They have large TVs, workspaces for laptops, and powerful showers. They simply blend seamlessly into the building’s rich history.
The Legendary Martini
But let’s be honest, the real star of the show is the Martini. And yes, shaken, not stirred! DUKES has a cocktail legacy that any bar would envy. It’s said to be the inspiration for James Bond’s favorite drink, thanks to its association with Ian Fleming, and its famed martini trolley is a testament to this history.
You might be lucky enough to have a martini personally crafted by Alessandro Palazzi, the head bartender. But no matter which white-jacketed bartender you encounter, your drink will be exceptional.
The Vesper is a true tribute to Fleming’s legacy, a perfect solution for those torn between gin and vodka martinis. This cocktail combines both, served chilled from the freezer, in proportions that will leave you breathless (and maybe a little regretful). You’ll be limited to two drinks, but frankly, by the time you reach the end of your second, you’ll be grateful for that rule. The Telegraph calls the bar “as fine a venue as ever,” and while the cocktails “aren’t cheap,” they are undoubtedly “worth it.”
A Taste of Great British Dining
The restaurant, GBR – Great British Dining Room, lives up to its name. It celebrates the finest British ingredients, whether in their natural form or transformed into classic British dishes. It’s a solid, thoroughly delicious experience.
The sourcing is impeccable, the cooking is spot on, and the menu is full of tempting options. Although there are familiar favorites like risotto, scampi, and steaks, the execution is often surprising. The risotto, for example, is made with Hodmedod’s grains instead of rice. The scampi features monkfish and a bold caper and parsley mayo. The steaks are perfectly sourced and grilled, so they’re essentially flawless.
While the food is fantastic, the restaurant lacks a touch of personality. You’ll have a lovely meal, especially when you factor in the proximity to your martini and the comfort of your bed, but it doesn’t quite match the allure of the bar and the hotel’s rich history. It might simply feel a little underwhelming compared to the bar’s legendary status and centuries of exquisite hospitality.
Breakfast, on the other hand, is excellent. It offers modern favorites like peanut butter, banana, and cacao porridge, as well as classic choices, high-quality pastries, and seriously good meat, including Bury black pudding. It’s also served until a generous 11 am, which is always a plus.
London at Your Doorstep
DUKES is perfectly situated in the heart of London. You’re just minutes away from The Royal Academy and Green Park, a short stroll to Fortnum & Mason, Waterstones, the vibrant shopping streets of Regent Street and Oxford Street, and the luxurious boutiques of Savile Row and Jermyn Street. Whatever your fancy, it’s likely within a 15 to 20-minute radius of this exceptionally central address, making the calm and quiet of DUKES seem even more remarkable.
So, if you’re looking for a taste of quintessential London, a place where history meets luxury, and where a perfect martini awaits, then DUKES London is your destination.
Neil Davey was a guest at DUKES London. Nightly rates in a DUKES room start from £425 inclusive of VAT and breakfast. 35 St James’s Place, St James’s, London SW1A 1NY; dukeshotel.com